The famous little West Bank town was bustling with activity ahead of the biggest night of the year which will culminate in midnight mass at the Nativity Church.
In Manger Square outside the church, a man dressed as Father Christmas was handing out sweets and the wail of bagpipes rang out as troops of Palestinian scouts marched past a giant green Christmas tree decorated with red, black and silver baubles – the colours of the Palestinian flag.
But for many faithful across the region, the festivities will be tinged with sadness following a year of bloodshed marked by a surge in the persecution of Christians that has drawn international condemnation.
“For many of you, the music of your Christmas hymns will also be accompanied by tears and sighs,” Pope Francis wrote in a long letter addressed to Christians in the Middle East.
Even in the Palestinian territories, Christmas will be a deliberately low-key affair after a July-August war with Israel which left nearly 2,200 Gazans dead and the tiny enclave in ruins in the third such conflict in six years. Ahead of the celebrations, the Argentine pontiff voiced concern about the growing persecution of Christians, some of whom he said had been “brutally driven out” of areas where they have lived for centuries.